How to Align a Door With Hinge Shims

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Open the door when it's time to reset the hinges. Proper shimming is the solution to improper framing. Your contractor doesn't feel the same way. Always start by drilling a clearance hole that allows the screw to slide freely in and out of the hole.

The rough opening width should be equal to the door width plus 2 inches. If the plate is bigger than the mortise, put the plate on the jamb, outline it with a pencil, and chisel to the outline. If you can see light between the doors, I hope you live in a warm climate.

How to Align a Door With Hinge Shims

Place door shims at the top and bottom hinge locations using a long level or a straight board and a short level. Then add the center door shims. You already know the standard approach to hanging a door: Set it in the rough opening, then level, shim and nail it. This traditional approach works fine in a perfect world where walls are always plumb, floors are level and you have plenty of time to fuss with the fit. But in the real world, some nonstandard tricks can help you finish the job faster and better. The usual method of holding the door frame in place while you shim behind the hinge side is awkward. Measure the width of the rough opening before you start shimming to see how much shim space is available. Tip 2: Make sure an exterior door clears the rug Avoid clearance problems Screw a strip of plywood to the bottom of the rough opening to raise the door and prevent it from rubbing on the floor inside. Most of the time, you can simply set your new exterior door frame directly on the subfloor and the door will easily clear carpeting or a throw rug. To avoid this problem, add a spacer under the door before you install it. Tip 3: Set interior jambs on spacers Avoid trimming door bottoms Raise doorjambs with scraps of trim to make sure the door will clear the carpeting. Find out the thickness of the finish floor and then calculate where the bottom of the door will be. There are many benefits to using screws rather than nails to install exterior doors. The trick is to hide the screws under the weather stripping on the latch side. On the hinge side, you can simply replace one screw in each hinge with a matching 3-in. Always start by drilling a clearance hole that allows the screw to slide freely in and out of the hole. This ensures the screw will pull the jamb tight to the shims, and allows for adjustment if needed. I know this from bitter experience. Tip 5: Tune up the rough opening Photo 2: Nudge the wall Protect the wall with a 2×4 scrap while you move the bottom of the wall over with a sledgehammer. When the wall is plumb, toe-screw the bottom plate to the floor to hold it in place. Twisted or out-of-plumb rough openings raise havoc with door installations. If you install the jambs to follow the walls, the door is likely to swing open or shut on its own. On the other hand, if you plumb the jambs against the out-of- plumb rough opening, the trim will be hard to install. Just move the studs on both sides of the opening back to plumb. How One Pro Installs a Door in Four Easy Steps John Schumacher, owner of Millwork Specialties Ltd. Plumb the hinge jamb The hinge side of the door has to be plumb or the door will swing open or closed on its own. Start by shimming the hinge side of the rough opening. First make marks to indicate the centers of the hinges. Then use a long level or a long, straight board along with a short level to plumb the shims. Tack a pair of tapered shims at the top hinge. Then install the bottom shims and finally fill in the middle. Screw the hinge-side jamb to the stud Remove the door from the frame and set it aside. Remove the hinge leaves from the jamb. Set the door frame in the opening with the jamb resting on the finished floor Photo 2 or on a spacer. Adjust the gap along the top Slide shims between the floor and the latch-side jamb until the head jamb is level. Now reinstall the door hinges and the door. Adjust the door shims under the latch-side jamb until the gap between the top of the door and the top jamb is even. Shim and nail the latch-side jamb Shim behind the latch-side jamb to make an even gap between the door and the jamb. Usually three or four sets of door shims, evenly spaced along the jamb, are plenty. Drive two finish nails into each set of shims to hold the jamb in place. Cut off the protruding door shims with a fine-tooth saw or a utility knife. Tip 6: Trim the bottom to level the top Photo 2: Cut the high-side jamb Trim the jamb with a fine-tooth saw. Old houses are notorious for having sloping floors. Even some newer houses settle in unexpected ways. Photos 1 and 2 show how to trim the jambs to fit a sloping floor. Tip 7: Hide screws behind the hinges Use screws, not nails Screw through the jamb in the hinge mortise. The screws will hold better than nails and will be hidden by the hinges. Screws are better for securing the hinge jamb because nails can work loose. You can easily replace one of the short hinge screws with a long screw, but it can be difficult to find a strong screw that matches the other screws. Hide the screw behind the hinge. It only takes a minute or two to remove all the hinges and gain access to this area. Then you can drive a self-drilling screw through the jamb with ease. Make sure the jamb is straight and plumb before you reinstall the hinges. If it only needs a little adjustment, you can just tap it over with a hammer and a block of wood. Otherwise, pry it off carefully, and with the door closed and latched, reinstall it against the door. Fix this problem by adjusting the hinge-side door shims to twist the jamb back to a right angle with the wall.

The following door installation instructions are to be used when you sin pre-hung doors. This can lead to distortion of the frame and loss of the seal in a thermal pane picture window. Tack the shims to the floor with a finish nail. Remove the hinge leaves from the jamb. Included are some general tips for installing a door. Tap the two jesus together using both hands.